Ingredients

AHA and BHA: More than Just Acronyms

Written by Dahvi Shira

AHA and BHA – the acronyms you’ve probably seen or heard of, but may not know exactly what they do.  In short, these ingredients are the heavy-hitters that ramp up your skincare routine, as they work to properly exfoliate and clarify the skin.  

They remove dead cells, refresh the complexion and lead to skin renewal for a youthful complexion.  That’s the magic property of these two chemical properties –  they work to combat signs of aging – and now we’ve got your attention.

Breaking It Down

Although quite powerful in nature, AHAs and BHAs are actually both naturally produced acids.  AHAs are found in sugar cane and some citrus fruits, while BHAs are present in plants like the bark of a willow tree. 

While slightly different, they’re both commonly used in skincare as chemical exfoliants with a shared goal of resurfacing the skin surface.  In general, both compounds work to buff away dead skin cells to reveal rejuvenated, smoother skin. 

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How AHA + BHA Differ

Now, while AHAs and BHAs both work to shed dead skin cells, the main difference between the two is that one is water-soluble and the other is oil-soluble. This, in turn, affects the way they each work to treat skin issues.

AHAs is a water-soluble acid, which means it works on and just beneath the skin’s surface. Glycolic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid, works to exfoliate the top layer of dead skin cells that accumulate over time.   Because of this, AHAs are ideal for people with dry skin, as they remove buildup that contributes to dry, flaky skin and allow for moisturizers to absorb deeply and properly hydrate the skin.

In contrast, BHAs are oil-soluble, so they penetrate deeper into the skin’s layers where natural oils and sebum exist within.  Due to this deep work, BHAs are ideal for people with oily and acne-prone skin. 

If you or someone you know has acne-prone skin, you’re probably no stranger to salicylic acid, the most common BHA.  It’s especially popular thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making it an effective acne treatment.

Despite their differences, AHAs and BHAs are both chemical exfoliators that have some shared benefits, as well as some individual benefits, too.

Reset + Rejuvenate

Too much of a good thing does exist, but the number one benefit of using AHAs and BHAs is the results you’ll see with usage consistency – because when the skin is properly exfoliated, other benefits proceed like a domino effect. 

As mentioned, AHAs – like glycolic acid and lactic acid – work on the skin barrier where natural buildup commonly occurs. This dead layer sheds naturally, but as we age, dead skin cells aren’t as quick to leave. This makes skin appear dry, flaky, dull and more mature.

And this is where AHAs do the work, as they act as unbinding agents to unglue dead skin cells from the surface.  Once this layer has been exfoliated away, younger skin comes to the surface for instantly smoother, more youthful-looking skin.

BHAs, on the other hand, not only exfoliate the top layer of skin, but also work on a deeper level.  Salicylic acid, for example, relieves congestion inside the pores, clearing impurities and drawing out excessive oiliness and sebum.  BHAs exfoliate the skin from within the pores to alleviate acne, smooth roughness and reduce fine lines.

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AHA: The Benefits

AHAs, like the glycolic acid you’ll find in our Your Favorite Ex Exfoliating Pads, work to rejuvenate dull and dry skin as a result of its chemical properties that provide a multitude of benefits.

Treat Acne

You may think exfoliation and acne are a rough combo, but think again.   With the correct use of chemical exfoliants (versus physical exfoliants), dead skin cells are shed, and the bond they have with hardened sebum is loosened. This, in turn, prevents breakouts. 

Reduce Hyperpigmentation

Excess production of melanin in the skin can result in discoloration, unevenness, and hyperpigmentation on the complexion.  AHAs can effectively target hyperpigmentation, as they remove cells in the epidermis that are darkened by this over-production of melanin. AHAs, like glycolic acid and lactic acid, also can inhibit more melanin from forming. 

Plump + Hydrate

We all want that youthful bounce and younger-looking skin – AHAs to the rescue.  They work to increase the rate of skin cell renewal, encouraging lipids to move up to the skin’s surface and hold onto moisture for longer.

AHAs also make for great moisturizing agents by improving skin barrier function and increasing hydration levels.   Now, while AHAs are fabulous hydration enhancers, that doesn’t mean you get to forgo actual moisturizer.  Applying a moisturizer post-exfoliation is actually crucial, as it protects the new skin cells revealed on the surface and hydrates the skin to prevent dryness.

Improve Texture

Do you have uneven texture on your skin, like bumps, acne scarring or wrinkles? The chemical exfoliation process of AHAs improves rough texture and smooths the skin’s surface for overall softer skin.  

BHA: The Benefits

Firstly, if you have super sensitive skin, be mindful of BHAs.   Because they travel deep into the skin, they’re not as gentle as AHAs – but, tough love may also be the answer for oily and acne-prone skin.

Balance Oily Skin

BHAs, like salicylic acid, make incredible agents at balancing oil levels in your skin. They draw out the excess, so when you wash away BHAs with water, the BHAs actually take the oils with them.  And because BHAs actually penetrate pores, they help to unclog and make them smaller.

Tackle Breakouts

Dealing with an unwanted pimple or two? BHAs are anti-inflammatory and antiseptic, which help to relieve acne.  BHAs suppress the bacteria that cause acne to unclog pores and thereby fight breakouts.

Improve Fine Lines

And finally, one of the best benefits of BHAs – their anti-aging properties. Because BHAs improve rough texture, they also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The chemical exfoliation properties of BHAs stimulate cell renewal bringing newer, fresher ones to the surface that look and feel younger.

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How to Use AHA + BHA Skincare

Because AHAs and BHAs are indeed acids, they shouldn’t be used without care. Skincare products with either ingredient may irritate the skin, so it’s important to use them with caution.

Here are the simple steps to take to protect your skin:

  • Apply a small amount to your skin first
  • Implement into your routine once a week, slowly increasing to 2-3 times per week
  • With usage, ensure to apply SPF daily
  • Don't forget moisturizer after to help support the new skin

To sum it up – AHAs and BHAs are essential to any skincare routine, with each individual acid having a significant purpose based on both skin types and issues.  Known to improve texture, target hyperpigmentation and reduce blemishes, these chemical exfoliators produce incredible results for the skin.  And when used as instructed and initially with caution, AHAs and BHAs result in smoother, more lively – and wiser – skin.